The Dress Shirt Base

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The dress shirt base is comprised of two large pieces of fabric, front and back, that is sewn together as the shirt body. The base can be customized in two areas, back pleats and bottom cut. The back pleats are the construction of folds formed by doubling fabric back upon itself. The bottom cut is the shirttail style that forms the dress shirt ending.

The back pleats or back cut of a base can have three distinctive styles, no pleats, centre pleats, or side pleats. This is usually done where the shirt yoke meets with the back part of the base piece. The purpose of pleating is to give a fuller shape to the back, which is particularly advantegeous for men with smaller frames looking to create added body. Generally, center pleats are more popular on American-Made Dress Shirts and side pleats are more common on British-Made Dress Shirts. While some say pleats purely add style, others claim they provide more movement.

The bottom cut or shirttail style is the form that the ending part of the base takes. There are two types bottom cuts, square and tail. While the tail cut can be used for both tucked dress shirts and untucked dress shirts, the square cut doesn't look as good for untucked dress shirts but allows for better tucking. If you're only going to wear the dress shirt tucked, then we recommend the square cut. If you're planning on wearing the dress shirt untucked at times, then we recommend the tail cut. Dress Shirt Base: Design Yours.